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Back at Sea: Cape Town to Port Louis, Mauritius

We sailed out of Cape Town to rough seas caused by the meeting of the Atlantic, Indian Ocean and Antarctic Oceans .Also in the night we went through a big thunderstorm with lightning. I was in bed and not really awake and I kept thinking that we had been hit be lightning - maybe we had. I don't know. Anyway, lots of noise ,

flashes of light, waves splashing against the window, and bumps from either the lightning or hitting waves. It probably lasted for about an hour.

Back in classes I decided that it was time to try some other classes. Now we know who the really interesting professors are and also what I need to know more about. I think that in order to understand the countries we visit, we really must know some of the history that has made them what they are today. It is also important to know some of the culture, family structure, religion from a sociological and anthropological perspective in order to understand what is going on. I am therefore dropping my english class (not that I don't need it, but in order to take some other classes Dutch).

Spent some time with our Desmond Tutu special lecturer. Judith Mayotte, delightful lady who is american but now lives in S, Africa. She is the first Desmond Tutu Distinguished Scholar for his world peace project and is an inter-port lecturer . She has an amazing history of work with refugees, including being on U.N. commissions and a movie Emmy for a documentary on refugees. . She also lost her leg in Dafur when a food relief box fell which was being dripped from the air fell on her.

Also played bridge with the two gentlemen from Bainbridge Island, Dave and Ron and Genevieve. We all agreed that this was something to do on "no class" days occasionally and not seriously. We played for two hours.We had a cultural, logistical and diplomatic briefing to Mauritius. While this island has an interesting history of colonization by the Dutch, Portugese, French and British, it seems that for us it will be two days of "spring break"

Port Louis, Mauritius, Thursday, Oct 14th

I awoke at 5 am and watched the sunrise and the mountains of Mauritius from my window. A good way to start the day. We cleared the ship and could go ashore by 10 am. and I went with Jack and Ann to try and find some loose beads for Jack and some elastic for me. I also needed a few drug store items. We took the water taxi fro the ship dock to the main part of town (a 20 minute walk if we had gone on foot), took out our maps and headed toward the market. What can I say! Uneven pavement with lots of steps, holes and other hazards. Jostling crowds, mostly appeared to be Indian, hawkers shouting "Best taxi, cheap" ,"you want this shirt". "what you want, I get it for you"and on and on and very hot and humid. After I was unable to find what I needed at three drug stores and Jack was unable to find his beads, I decided to return to the ship for the afternoon and rest for tomorrows Marine Biology FDP.- Thursday

Friday. Marine Biology trip (not really - mostly fun)

We did go to the Marine Museum. This is a government agency which is in charge of everything related to fish and fishing on the islands. I had a great deal of difficulty understanding the person who was lecturing. I did get that they have a lot of problems because the islands main business now is tourism. Tourists want large hotels which eat up the beaches and they want to eat fish The sea is being over fished. So the whole thing is not sustainable. The only good thing is that they do recognize that there is a problem.

After this, the main business of the day: a glass bottom boat trip to Ile de Deux Cocos, a picture perfect little island on the other side (the tourist side) of Mauritius, At $3000. peer night you can rent the island. I bought some island made rum for Xmas presents (I tried it. It's good) Some of the group went snorkeling. I did not as I was too full of lunch and the boat did not look very age friendly.

At Sea: Mauritius to Chennai, India

Parties. parties, parties: a"half-way" party, a birthday dinner in the Special dining room(4 star food), a raucous meeting to plan the Sea Olympics which will occur on Thursday. { I signed up to be a judge and am hoping I don't have to judge something about which I know nothing like soccer. India is approaching. We cross the equator again today sometime.

Next Day: (lost track of which day it is again)

Sea Olympics Day: Major competitive games. The students are divided up into "seas" )and the faculty, staff and life long learners were a "sea" too. We were the Nomer Sea. I judged the trivia contest. However, the other judge and I made ourselves irrelevant by being unable to tell which team put their flag up first, so they had to change the rules which left us out!!! Lots of fun all day. Nomer Sea won several contests and we came in third at the end. We advertised ourselves as having the wisdom (lll's) faculty(who give grades) and the Arch! and we gave no mercy!

Friday, Oct 22

Arrived in Chennai early in the morning. I planned a trip with Dave and Julie Weitz to Munmar ( where Maggie went last year and enjoyed very much) so we were picked up on the second day and first flew to Cochin on the west side of India. After an uneventful flight we landed in Cochin and found it much cleaner and prettier than Chennai with palm trees, modern houses and buildings behind the stalls on the streets. Our driver, N, was very adept at negotiating the traffic even though we were all terrified by the way all drivers here seem to drive. They pass on blind corners , stop just before killing people walking at the side of the road, ignore lines on the road and stop signs. Julie rode in front and her feet were tired from putting on imaginary brakes. It was a long drive through green country with rubber plants and huge bushes like our house plants. We moved gradually upward until we came to a cloud forest and the road started to have many switchbacks and hairpin bends. When the clouds parted every once in awhile we saw that we we Eravi

eravikulemre surrounded by high mountains with tea plants in all the open spaces. Our hotel was at 5000 feet, the air was clean and cool and the garden beautiful. We each had a cabin which overlooked the entire valley. We arrived at 3.30 and were told that tea was being served in the teahouse, a round open building with a thatched roof. We had cardamon tea and very delicious banana fritters. Dinner was too spicy for me, but desert was the best caramel custard I have ever had.

The next day our driver picked us up and took us to Eravikulam National Park. We had to wait for a bus to take us up on another perilous ride to the start of a path which took people to the highest peak and a look-out point. I did not go to the top. I stayed on a wall and observed the passers by and had my picture taken with various people who thought it would be cool to have a picture with a foreigner. Our driver asked us if we would like to go on an elephant safari so we went to a place where we could get a 30 minute elephant ride. I found the ride different from a horse or camel because it is so big and its steps are so large. But it was fun.

Our third day we drove back down the mountain to Allepei (sp?) Lake where we boarded our houseboat. To get to the boat we had to negotiate a broken bridge and a narrow platform onto the boat Our houseboat crew really tried to be good hosts by giving us a cocoa nut drink (horrible) but fell down on cleanliness. The air conditioning was minimal and it was now very hot and humid. However it was an interesting experience to see a community of houses built along the banks of canals with rice paddies on the other side. These people lived here, worked the paddies and did their bathing, laundry, dishes and everything else in the lake. Our cook cooked lake fish for us which I did not eat because I was not sure what all that pollution did to the fish. The others ate it though and had no ill effects. We spent a hot night in our cabins but were rewarded in the morning by dawn on the misty lake and little fishing boats floating by. At 9 am we were picked up and drove into Cochin for some shopping. I splurged and bought a scarf and some loose beads. We returned to Chennai to find a major thunderstorm and lightning over the airport. It took us awhile to get to the ship which we were now glad to see. Off with our grungy loathes , a shower and glass of wine and some cheese in the Weitz' cabin and then to bed. We sailed away from Chennai at 8 pm Friday.

South Africa Pictures

Cape Town, S. Africa F10

Saturday, Oct 2.

Arrived in gorgeous Cape Town very early in the morning before sunrise. Too early to get up to watch the arrival.We had an early diplomatic briefing which scared us all . Highest crime rate in the world, " You think its a first world country until you scratch the surface and you find it is very much a third world country","don't go alone anywhere". "always go in groups""hide your camera, don't look like a tourist, be careful", credit card scams, muggings etc etc. We wondered if we should get off the ship. But it was a beautiful day, and as soon as we landed, the city is so clean and beautiful and looks so benign that we forgot all about the warnings!

A day to go to Table Mountain. Three of us took a cab to the cable car. What a view!. We could see 360 degrees from the mountains in the west through downtown Cape town and then down the peninsula to to the Cape of Good Hope and around up False Bay. Absolutely fantastic. I hope I got good pictures. Haven't had time to look at them yet. This tripis a must for anyone coming here. Table Mountain is named because it looks like a table, but also because it gets a tablecloth of mist almost every afternoon. It also gets very high winds and is very often shut down.

In the evening we went to the gorilla theatre in District 6 for and evening WOZA. District 6 is the area in which in the 70's during apartheid, the government decided that only white people should live here, so they removed all the colored, black and asian community to various parts of the outlying districts of Cape Town called ''CapeTown flats", a bare and sandy area where little grows. There was no adequate housing,it was miles from transportation and had no infrastructure. They just dumped the people there. The whole area of the district was then bulldozed so that there was no return. A couple of churches(like the catholic and baptist who had international connections) were

left. This is prime real estate but it has never been redeveloped because there was too much protest. The theatre was very good, told the stories of three of the residents with dance, story and music. We had a delicious dinner of antelope, crocodile etc. stew and hamburger.

Sunday,

I had signed up for this trip because it was supposed to go to Robben Island (where Nelson Mandels was incarcerated for 27 years)but the ferry was broken so instead we went to the District 6 Museum. a tour of the city, and a Township.

Last year, when I went to a Township, we went with a local guide and saw some horrible conditions (three families to a bedroom, no water etc.) This trip was a very sanitized version of the Townships. We did not get out of the bus until we came to our restaurant, and did not go anywhere near the squatters areas. We did see however, the positive side of the Townships which demonstrated the resilience and energy of these black communities . The restaurant was a concrete building which had been added onto bit by bit. It was not very large, just room enough for our group. Very clean, very nicely decorated. A local band played for us. The lady who had made it told us her story. She worked as a maid in the 50's or e60's for 40. rand a month (about $5.00)and one day she came across a receipt for wine and cheese for the household for 40 rand. She said to herself "I am worth more than a piece of cheese and a glass of wine" She got another job in addition to starting night school and over the years began to build onto her house. She started various little businesses selling secpmd hand items and went to cooking school. She now has this restaurant, which won an award for the best ethnic restaurant in Cape Town plus a small gift shop with local art work. Locked iron gates guard the premises and she let us in and out. An amazing lady.

Tuesday. A day of rest. Went to the Mall (just like a US mall) and bought a new toothbrush. I was very tired from the first two days.

Wednesday.

Went on the Cape Peninsula Tour. We drove south to the Cape of Good Hope and around the peninsula to come up the other side of table mountain. The scenery is indescribable (at least by me!) Great mountains rising out of the ocean. Picturesque little villages. Bishops Corner, the "old money" part of Cape Town. Very upscale areas and miles of lovely beaches. A mediterranean climate with lovely bright spring flowers. A place one would really like to live. A place to die for. Much nicer than La Jolla or S. Calif but then, once again, men sitting at the side of the road trying to get a day labor job Here an there a Township too far from possible employment for people to get to work even if they were able to find employment.

Thursday.

This was the day we were supposed to go Great White Shark cage diving. It dawned cloudy, windy and nasty. Diving was cancelled I had mixed feelings about it. I really wanted to go, but on the other hand I was afraid of getting cold or not being able to get into the cage. As it turned out, some people did go the next day and froze in rough seas and did not see any sharks. I spent the day recuperating again, and went to the modern dance African version of the opera "Carmen" produced by Michael Williams ( our spring preport lecturer, and director of the Cape Opera) at the University Theatre. Very good with a pre-performance lecture by Michael and a delicious spread of wine and hors d'oevres.

Friday

Went to Stellenbosch with the SAS trip. Another place to die for. We had been here briefly last year but had not had time to look around. Stellenbosch is a University town with old Dutch and Victorian buildings ,tree lined streets and quaint shops. I think everyone felt immediately at home here. If I were going to a college, this is the place I would choose to go for good feeling. Later we went forwine tasting to the Neetlingshof Winery in another lovely setting of gardens, lawns, vines and view stretching over the valley to the mountains beyond. I bought some wine. Later, back on our dock, we went to lunch at a fancy restaurant in the mall, I bought some Christmas presents and we returned to the ship in time to leave for Mauritius. Again, I think all of us felt that we had not had long enough in this beautiful but tragic place.

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Captains Dinner, Kakum National Pk Canopy walk

Takoradi to Cape Town- F10.

Back at Sea; Takoradi to Cape Town

We are now Emerald-Shellbacks. We crossed the equator and the Prime Meridian at 0-0. We had to go 30 mails out our way to do this, but now I will have a picture of this memorable occasion. Actually, there is a professional video that was that I can download .

Spent my first day at sea getting my hair cut and having a manicure and pedicure. I now look a little more human.Someone also had a cocktail party in of the 7 th floor suites for Marguery who is leaving us in Cape Town.

Next Dayt

(now the days are becoming confusing again) was Neptune Day (another video) when many of the students and the Archbishop went through the ceremony, kissed a fish, had fish oil poured on them and got their heads shaven

But now we are getting into the serious stuff again. Movies re apartheid and the Truth and Reconciliation Commission and the terrible atrocities that were committed during apartheid. Our inter-. port lecturer is Louis Patler is a business man who advises Fortune 500 companies on business trends and has a best selling book on the subject .He was an activist in the 60's and 70's and told about an SAS trip to Cape Town in which they would not let the black students off the ship. He got on the loud speaker and suggested that no one get off. After they resolved this issue and everyone landed, three students, 1 black, one blond girl and another man took a car up to Table Mountain. Half way up a car came up beside them and ran them off the road, killing the black student and severely injuring the others. Archbishop Tutu talked about living as a Nobel prize winner and Archbishop in Cape Town and his children not being allele to play with the white children. The problems with the Townships' crime, aids, unemployment etc. are not being dealt with.

Friday (I think) A wine tasting party at 5. Then the cultural pre-port. Our choir class sang

the African National Anthem in the six languages of S.Africa and the Archbishop led it. (He is becoming more visible now) One day left and we will be there.

.

Takoradi to Cape Town- F10.

Back at Sea; Takoradi to Cape Town

We are now Emerald-Shellbacks. We crossed the equator and the Prime Meridian at 0-0. We had to go 30 mails out our way to do this, but now I will have a picture of this memorable occasion. Actually, there is a professional video that was that I can download .

Spent my first day at sea getting my hair cut and having a manicure and pedicure. I now look a little more human.Someone also had a cocktail party in of the 7 th floor suites for Marguery who is leaving us in Cape Town.

Next Dayt

(now the days are becoming confusing again) was Neptune Day (another video) when many of the students and the Archbishop went through the ceremony, kissed a fish, had fish oil poured on them and got their heads shaven

But now we are getting into the serious stuff again. Movies re apartheid and the Truth and Reconciliation Commission and the terrible atrocities that were committed during apartheid. Our inter-. port lecturer is Louis Patler is a business man who advises Fortune 500 companies on business trends and has a best selling book on the subject .He was an activist in the 60's and 70's and told about an SAS trip to Cape Town in which they would not let the black students off the ship. He got on the loud speaker and suggested that no one get off. After they resolved this issue and everyone landed, three students, 1 black, one blond girl and another man took a car up to Table Mountain. Half way up a car came up beside them and ran them off the road, killing the black student and severely injuring the others. Archbishop Tutu talked about living as a Nobel prize winner and Archbishop in Cape Town and his children not being allele to play with the white children. The problems with the Townships' crime, aids, unemployment etc. are not being dealt with.

Friday (I think) A wine tasting party at 5. Then the cultural pre-port. Our choir class sang

the African National Anthem in the six languages of S.Africa and the Archbishop led it. (He is becoming more visible now) One day left and we will be there.

.

Takoradi to Cape Town- F10

Back at Sea; Takoradi to Cape Town

We are now Emerald-Shellbacks. We crossed the equator and the Prime Meridian at 0-0. We had to go 30 mails out our way to do this, but now I will have a picture of this memorable occasion. Actually, there is a professional video that was that I can download .

Spent my first day at sea getting my hair cut and having a manicure and pedicure. I now look a little more human.Someone also had a cocktail party in of the 7 th floor suites for Marguery who is leaving us in Cape Town.

Next Dayt

(now the days are becoming confusing again) was Neptune Day (another video) when many of the students and the Archbishop went through the ceremony, kissed a fish, had fish oil poured on them and got their heads shaven

But now we are getting into the serious stuff again. Movies re apartheid and the Truth and Reconciliation Commission and the terrible atrocities that were committed during apartheid. Our inter-. port lecturer is Louis Patler is a business man who advises Fortune 500 companies on business trends and has a best selling book on the subject .He was an activist in the 60's and 70's and told about an SAS trip to Cape Town in which they would not let the black students off the ship. He got on the loud speaker and suggested that no one get off. After they resolved this issue and everyone landed, three students, 1 black, one blond girl and another man took a car up to Table Mountain. Half way up a car came up beside them and ran them off the road, killing the black student and severely injuring the others. Archbishop Tutu talked about living as a Nobel prize winner and Archbishop in Cape Town and his children not being allele to play with the white children. The problems with the Townships' crime, aids, unemployment etc. are not being dealt with.

Friday (I think) A wine tasting party at 5. Then the cultural pre-port. Our choir class sang

the African National Anthem in the six languages of S.Africa and the Archbishop led it. (He is becoming more visible now) One day left and we will be there.

.